Warning, wall of text imminent.
The day started in Cortez, CO with rain and some snow, so time to layer up! The road to flagstaff was mostly uneventful scenery, compared to the sites the days before, but I finally got to do this:
Ok not a great picture but its the Four Corners monument. Allegedly a few years ago we found out that the ACTUAL site of where the 4 states borders come together is a bit a ways away, down in a canyon. So technically its not the 4 corners but, c'mon, its the thought that counts right?
Not pictured is the "Navajo Burger" I had from a little stand set up next to the monument. Pretty simple with using fry bread and traditional burger stuff in the middle, but the best things are usual the simplest! Delicious! I'm not sure if it was cow or buffalo meat, being within the Navajo Nation and all.
Next destination is Flagstaff, and easily the worst time I've had while riding so far. Mostly pretty boring high desert scenery, with very powerful wind. Most of the road was heading west, and head on into the wind. I heard from some people at the gas stations that this road gets closed occasionaly due to wind. While on the road, I saw an 18-wheeler truck almost tip over, wheels in the air.
Freya hated the wind. I'm approaching the 5000km service window, and when I checked the oil in the morning I had full level of dark black thick mud. Also at this altitude, since I dont have extra jets for the carbs, I'm running really rich. The night before I cleaned both of my air filters, knowing I'd be getting into some dust today.
If I let off the throttle, the wind would knock me down 15mph in about a second. Wind straight in the face the whole way, 4th gear was never an option, and having to run her pretty hard just to maintain 40mph. I attempted to do some drafting, but they're busy doing 65-70 and I couldnt keep up.
Finally, a big RV was slowpoking, and I went with him for about 10km, before I started losing all power and feeling something was wrong with the engine. Knock Knock Knock, more louder than normal, she doesnt feel balanced... "oh my god I just joined the Holy Holey Piston club!" I say to myself. Theres no shoulder, but its all red dirt desert so I safely pull over and shut her down. Middle of nowhere.
After a solid 15 minutes of calming down and letting Freya rest, I check the oil. Still black as night, but proper level. I go underneath, pull the plug and drain about a quart into an empty gatorade bottle. The oil is still dark, but theres no metal in it, just oil... I put a quart of brand new oil in, then use the kickstart to get the new oil flowin. I go to start her up, no help, something is still wrong.
I then change the air filter, check my spark plugs, check all compliance fittings, and everything checks out. Still problems...
Then I put the petcock to reserve, start her up, and after a second she purrs along like normal. I was low on gas! SO SIMPLE. I was also low on mental capacity apparently. How embarassing! Back on the road, into the brutal wind, and no sweet fat slow RV to draft.
The road then turned straight south, so all that horrible wind is now hitting my right side, blowing me all over the road. White knuckle control the entire time, and my arms are killin me right now! All we had to do was climb one more mountian, then it would all be downhill.
I need a helmet camera, because while entering flagstaff and topping the highest point of the day, there was a "dirt devil" or little refridgerator sized tornado of dust. It was coming right for me and nothing I could do! Of course it wasnt big enough to be dangerous, but it sure was funny, and the people behind me all gave thumbs up when they passed me!
From flagstaff to phoenix, its all downhill. Going from 7000 to below 3000 elevation was something Freya and I needed. Now we had trees blocking the crosswind, and with the day coming to an end the winds started to calm down.
Nighttime, cruising all downhill at 55-60 on a sweet winding road. The glow of the phoenix area in the clouds above began to light things up, like a beacon in the distance. A bed of ashes from which a phoenix would rise. Every drop in elevation seemed to make Freya more powerful, we were almost there.
Then finally we got there! Safe and sound at my good friend Mr. Paris's house. I feel like I've been beaten up, sore all over, but Im finally back on the giant paved grid of Glendale.
Canyon Leg complete. Now its time to relax and get ready for the Desert Leg which is from phoenix to Arkansas, via Las Cruces, Roswell, and San Antonio. Hoo-Ya!*
*note yeah thats right I said "hoo-ya". My friends on the USS Connecticut might be back in port soon, and if you're reading this, welcome back my brothers.
